Essential Guide For The Best Iceland Roadtrip

Exploring The Magic Of Iceland. My Detailed Two-Weeks Roadtrip Itinerary. 

For our 12-day road trip we decided to take a Jeep Camper, so that we could make a detour into the highlands where roads can only be driven by 4WD.

From the beginning we decided that we would camp. As we were traveling Iceland during the main season, we would have had to book our accommodation well in advance. But that would have also meant to plan the whole trip. Therefore, we decided to go for the flexible and independent option: camping.

There is no need to book in advance, there is always a place available and you simply pay on arrival or the next morning. Additionally, camping in Iceland is much cheaper than hotels/hostels. Per person we paid between 10 and 14 Euro per night. Depending on the facilities of the campsite, this included warm water for showers.

The Route

Before we started I marked everything I wanted to see in my travel guide (Baedeker) on the map and created an overview on how much time we approximately need for each stop.

The most interesting attractions for us were in the south of Iceland. Therefore we followed the ring road counterclockwise. We saw the main attractions right in the first week of our trip, when we were still fit and felt like hiking. 

Day 1:
The Hot Springsim Hengill, Kerid Crater & Landmannagaular

After we have picked up our rental car at 1am in Keflavik, we started searching for a camping site. Right in our first night we have been surprised by the northern lights of Aurora Borealis. Unfortunately it was also the only time in the two weeks that we saw some.

The first night we hardly slept, we didn't dress warm enough and it got quite cold in our rooftop tent. So we get up early and drove to our first destination: The Hot Springsim Hengill area.

If you come from Hveragerdi you drive to a parking lot located next to a small café. For the easy hike including the bathing stop it took as around 3 hours in total. Afterwards we continued to the Kerid crater. A small entrance fee is charged and we hiked around the crater.

Afterwards we started in the direction of the waterfall Haifoss. On the way there we passed the volcano Heklavor. As we have already left at 6am we had enough time to explore the highlands. This was also the first highlight of our Iceland trip. The colourful landscape of Landmannagaular is in my opinion an absolute must!

From Landmannalaugar the popular trekking trail Laugavegur leads to Thörsmörk. But for this you need to hike four days, which is unfortunately did not fit into our itinerary. 

Day 2:
Seljalandsfoss, Vestmannaeyjar & Skogafoss

Before we took the ferry to Vestmannaeyjar, we stopped at the waterfall Seljalandsfoss. From the harbour it takes only 10 minutes. 

At Seljalandsfoss there is a parking lot and a small kiosk. The unique thing about this waterfall is that a narrow path leads behind the water. But be sure to put on a rain jacket, otherwise you will be completely soaked after a few minutes.

Around noon, the ferry took us to the Westman Islands within half an hour. Once I arrived we first went on a walk through Heimaey and then decided to climb the fire mountain Eldffell. At the top we enjoyed an amazing panoramic view of the island. The strenuous ascent is definitely worth it!

In the south of the island there is a lighthouse, but we didn't go to there, because it was getting late and we were a little exhausted from the ascent to the fire mountain. Therefore we took the ferry back to Iceland's south coast and made our way to the waterfall Skogafoss, which is one of the highest in Iceland.

Day 3:
Airplane Wreck, Dyrholaey, Vik y Myrdal, Black Sand Beach, Reynisdragar, Mount Maelifell, Fjadrargljufur

On our third day we started early in the morning to go to the airplane wreck. After less than a 10 minutes drive there is a parking lot on the right hand side of the Skogafoss from where you can walk to the plane for about an hour. It is not possible to drive to the wreck by car.

Afterwards we continued towards Vik y Myrdal and made a stop on the peninsula Dyrholaey on the way there. At the edge of the cliffs puffins can be observed and when we reached the top we had  an amazing view over the deserted black beach.

At the other side there is a rock arch at the lighthouse that reminds a little of the London Arch in the Port-Campbell National Park along the Great Ocean Road in Australia.

Afterwards, we continued to the Black Sand Beach. The anticipation is huge, it is supposed to be the most beautiful beach of Iceland. Especially well known are the striking rock pinnacles, the Reynisdrangar. Unfortunately we are in Vik exactly at noon and tourists were numerously represented.

We actually wanted to go to Mount Maelifell already on the second day, but since the road was closed from Landmannagaular, we planed to go there from the other side today. So we drove from Vik towards the middle of the country again.

The drive on a bumpy gravel road takes us almost an hour through a fairytale black-green volcanic landscape until we arrived at the camping site Thakgil. Here we took a short break to have a closer look at the hiking maps.

There are three trails marked on the map, but since all of them involved 4 hours of hiking (to the Maelifell 4-5 hours) and we didn't quite dare to do that. We followed one trail for about half an hour by car until we decided to make a turn and made our way back towards the ring road.

Our last destination of the day was the Fjadrargljufur Canyon. From the parking place, a narrow hiking path goes up the hill that leads to several view points which offer a great view over the green canyon.

Day 4:
Laki Craters, Fagrifoss, Tjarnagígur, Skaftafellsjökull & Jökulsarlonan

On our fourth day we went to the Laki craters. In order to get there you have to drive through some fords. Luckily the water was not too high, so that we still managed to get through.

On the way we took a short side trip to the waterfall Fagrifoss. After a few photos we went back on the road and continued until we arrived at the parking lot at the mountain Laki. From there a circular walk leads to the top of the mountain. After a not so easy ascent we were rewarded with spectacular views over the crater row.

On recommendation of a staff member of the national park we drove a little further until we passed the lake Lambast to arrive at the crater Tjarnagígur. From there you can also walk a round trip, which takes 2 hours. Again it was too long for us and we only walked about half an hour through the green moss landscape until we turned around again. There is also a short hiking trail which is suitable for everyone, because after only 5 minutes you reach a small crater lake.

Back on the ring road we continued to the Skaftafell National Park. Several hiking trails start from the parking lot and the tourist centre. We actually planned on hiking to the waterfall Svartifoss but as it again takes two hours walking time and it already got dark, we decided to skip the waterfall and instead walk the one hour round trip to the Skaftafellsjökull. If you have enough time you can also book some glacier tours departing several times daily.

Shortly before sunset we arrived at the glacier lagoon Jökulsarlonan. For me it was definitely the highlight of our trip and the most magical place Iceland's. Above all it was the baby blue color of the ice floes and the many seals which fascinated me so much and made up for the icy cold wind. On the other side of the bridge there is a black lava beach where the ice floes of the lagoon are washed ashore.

Day 5:
Höfn, Vestrahorn, Seydisfjördur, Litlanesfoss & Hengifoss  

From Höfn we started further along the ring road. After almost 15 kilometres we took a turn-off, drove along the coast on a gravel road and after a few kilometres we reached the Viking Café.

We parked our car and wanted to walk towards the beach. However, you have to pay entrance fee for this in the café - which surprised me a lot  - but ok I guess it's private land. As I wanted to see the beautiful beach and we already drove there we ended up paying the entrance fee. Firstly we visited an old viking village. It is only an old film location and not a real Viking village.

After a few photos we went back to the café and drove to the next parking lot at the lighthouse. The black sandy beach at the Atlantic Ocean is located directly at the mountain Vestrahorn and is one of the most popular photo motives of Iceland. With a little bit of luck you can also see seals there.

Afterwards we drove to Seydisfjördur. The place inspires with its colourful wooden houses and its popular photo motive - the blue wooden church. Before we continued to the Hengifoss waterfall, we walk around the lake.

The hike to Hengifoss starts at a car park with an information board. On the left side of the stream, a path leads uphill over steps. After around 30 minutes you pass the Litlanesfoss and you can already see the Hengifoss from a distance and after another 45 minutes you reach the Hengifoss at the end of the path.

Afterwards we drove to the Jökulsárgljúfur National Park to spend the night there.

Day 6:
Botnstjörn, Selfoss, Dettifoss, Mount Namafjall, Namaskard, Krafla and Viti Crater, Leirhnjukur, Myvatn & Kalfaströnd 

From our campsite at the Asbyrgi gorge we drove around 5 minutes further into the gorge to a parking lot. From there a circular path leads to lake Botnstjörn. Before you follow the path back to the car park, there is a turn off to the left to a lookout point from where you are rewarded with views over the whole gorge.

Not far away are the mighty Selfoss and Dettifoss waterfalls, which are connected by a 2.5 km long circular path.

After the two waterfalls we continued to the geothermal area at Mount Namafjall, where the most impressive solfatar field in Iceland spreads out - the Namaskard. Scenically you could think you are in a science fiction movie, but we couldn't stay there forever because of the strong smell of sulphur.

We walked across the field, took some pictures and continued to Krafla and the Viti Crater. The hike on the crater rim takes around one hour. Right next to it is the lava field Leirhnjukur. From the parking lot leads a hike of approximately one hour over the lava field.

The last destination for this day was the Myvatn area, where we also stayed overnight. Before the sun set we started an approx. 2 km long round hike on the peninsula Kalfaströnd with a beautiful view of the lake and the lava towers.

Day 7:
Grjotagja, Dimmuborgir, Godafoss & Akureyrarkirkja

Before we hiked the Hverfjall crater, we made a short stop at Grjotagja. Grjotagja is a lava cave with crystal clear water. Together with two other tourists we have been at the cave early in the morning. Unfortunately the water is not as beautiful as on all the photos on the internet, so this stop was rather unnecessary for us.

At the east shore of Myvatn there is Dimmuborgir, a lava field and the remaining of a lava lake. An info map at the parking lot shows the different hiking paths.

Back on the ring road a short side trip to the Godafoss is definitely worthwhile. It offers a fascinating view. We followed the ring road until Akureyri and drove to the botanical garden. Afterwards we walked to the centre, where the Akureyrarkirkja cannot be overlooked. A walk along the streets Hafnarstraeti and Adalstraeti leads through the old and new city centre with some remarkable wooden houses.

Days 8 & 9:
Hvitserkur, Snaefellsnes, Kirkjufellsfoss, Budir & Surtshellir

Unfortunately we had no luck with the weather. It has been storming and raining since yesterdays evening, so our motivation for this day was limited.

Our first destination was the Hvitserkur, a basalt cliff on the coast of the Vatnsnes peninsula before we made our way to the peninsula Snaefellsnes to the mountain Kirkjufell and the waterfall Kirkjufellsfoss.

Afterwards we drove to Budir, where there is only a hotel and a small church, which is listed as one of the oldest wooden churches in the country.

The further way led us to Surtshellir, a lava cave in the lava field Hallmundahraun. It is easy to get into the cave, but it is recommended to only descend deeper with a flashlight and not to go too far into the cave.

Day 10:
Thingvellir, Thingvallakirkja, Strokkur, Gullfoss, Bruarfoss, Hlauptungufoss & Mitfloss

Today we went back to the Thingvellir National Park. Passing the Sifra we drove to a parking lot close to the Thingvallakirkja. From there we started a round walk, where we had a great view of the church.

At noon we drove to the hot spring area Haukadalur, which is especially famous for the geyser Strokkur. This geyser throws a fountain into the air about every 10 minutes. Five kilometres further on is the probably most famous waterfall of Iceland, the Gullfoss - also called the Golden Waterfall. Here several hikes lead around and to the waterfall. We decided to take the short way, as there was a very unpleasant wind blowing.

Our last destination for this day was the waterfall Bruarfoss. In my opinion it is by far the most beautiful waterfall in Iceland and one of my favourite places because of its bright blue water and only very few tourists find their way to this spot.

After endless searches for the right way through the holiday home settlement we parked at a small bridge at the shore at road 37. So from this "parking spot" we set off on foot in the hope to finally reach the waterfall. After an hour along the trail through mud and bushes we finally reached the bridge in front of the Bruarfoss. At the waterfall we met several people, who probably started from the holiday home settlement and were thus significantly shorter on the way.

I can warmly recommend the alternative way along the river despite the somewhat longer hike. You will pass two more waterfalls, which are as ice-blue as the Bruarfoss - the Hlauptungufoss and Mitfloss.

Days 11 & 12:
Gunnhuver, Reykjanesviti, Blue Lagoon, Reykjavik & Hallgrímskirkja

First we drove to the most active hot spring in Iceland - Gunnhuver. From there you can already see the next destination, the lighthouse Reykjanesviti. At the lighthouse there is a parking lot from where you can walk to the cliff Valahnukur.

A few minutes further on there is another parking lot. A hike to the bird rock Hafnaberg starts from there. It took us almost an hour to get to the coast. The rock is especially well known and popular among birdwatchers, as some sea birds nest on the cliffs. When we arrived at the coast we unfortunately only saw seagulls.

In the afternoon we went to the probably most famous hot spring of Iceland - the Blue Lagoon. Already on the way to the parking lot we passed its bright blue water. But in my opinion the overpriced entrance fees are not justified.

Different packages are offered at different prices. Depending on the desired time of admission the prices differ again. We have decided for the cheap one and still paid approximately 60€ per person. But we also booked our ticket only 4 days in advance. Included were only the entrance to the lagoon and one Silicia Mud Mask.

All in all we spent 3 hours in the water and had two cold drinks each. It is a unique experience with a super relaxing factor, but nothing more.

Our last day we spent exploring Reykjavik. Our hotel was located right in the centre of the capital in Laugavegur, which together with the streets Austurstraeti, Laekjargata and Skolavördustigur forms the main shopping mile of Reykjavik.

A visit to the famous Hallgrímskirkja is of course not to be missed. Take the elevator up to the top of the church. Once at the top, you enjoy panoramic views over the roofs of Reykjavik. As an alternative you can also use the viewing platform of the Perlan.

A popular path along the harbour, which passes the concert hall Harpa and the Solfar sculpture, is the Sculpture & Shore Walk. I can also recommend a walk around the lake Tjörnin.

Before we took the flybus to the airport in Keflavik, we went to the Kringlan shopping centre, which has only a limited number of shops.

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xx

Nina